RoopKund Trek

It was early when the train reached kathgodam from Delhi. Kathgodam is one of the last points accessible by rail , from where you can set out to Himalayas . Devoid of full sleep, I found my way into an upper class retiring room to get some rest. Though it was an old building, the station was clean and the room was refurbished with new chairs. Rather than venturing out in dark in an unfamiliar place, retiring rooms, especially upper class in railway stations has always been some kind of solace and a safe bet. A bout of fever was troubling me for a few days, I felt flurried and subdued.

After some rest and morning tea from a roadside shop, I got into a bus to Nainital. I had few days in hand before I head for Roopkund. An hour’s drive from Kathgodam , Nainital is swanked by a huge and beautiful lake and derives the name from it. Though it is pleasant town, it is ruthlessly covered with unscrupulous and unaesthetic construction. As I walked along the road that encircles the lake, a group of well-aligned swans was drifting in rhythm towards tourists for food. After having noodles and hot tea , I headed for Almora. Meanwhile, my friend who is a doctor advised me to take a course of antibiotics.

First to Bhowali and then to Almora by bus, it took more than 2 hours to cover around 60 km.  Almora is a nice town which still holds some beauty in itself though it is crowded. I managed to get a room in an antiquated building which according to the current owner, was associated with Swami Vivekananda who stayed in Almora for some time. When I settled down, he gave an emphatic lecture about his proud lineage and grouched about the dilapidated state of the building which he blamed on protracted lawsuits between various family members. For a moment I felt that this story resonates everywhere. The building had a long verandah with netted doors and spacious rooms, gave some amount of nostalgia and calmness. There was a bronze statue of Swami Vivekananda in the front of the building. In the evening I walked towards mall road and my eyes strayed everywhere. Somehow it looked that life on hills, especially on Uttarakhand has a fair amount peace and tranquility.

Next morning, I was reminded by the owner that checkout time in Almora is 10 o clock and asked me whether I am planning to stay longer. Though surprised about the “timing” but I managed to get an extension for an hour. My next destination was Kausani, a next town on the way to Roopkund base camp.  It took two hours through some bad patches of road and beautiful scenery. Kausani is a town with very basic facilities with a central area which has ATMs, few banks, and other shops. After following a direction to a side road, it took me to a restaurant overlooking a valley and clouds intertwined with mountains. It was noon and food there tasted insipid, but I liked the view and coziness. In fact, the restaurant was part of a motel and I decided to stay there.

Though my fever subsided, antibiotics had put my stomach on notice and made me unquiet due to the upcoming trek. Light food can make generally unfit considering I need to burn out thousands of calories while climbing.  With an overdose of thoughts and dilemma, I walked up to Gandhi’s ashram in Kausani where Gandhiji stayed for a fortnight. It was nicely kept with many photographs of Gandhiji and freedom movement and it had a great view of the mountains. In the evening I sauntered around in that spartan town center, had dinner and spoke to few people. In fact, I met a young man speaking Malayalam which reminded of an old joke.

Finally, the day has come, I waited for the pickup jeep to head for Lohajung which is apparently the basecamp for the trek. I joined a group of six young men who did a group tour to Leh from Delhi on motorcycles. It was dawn when we reached Lohangunj , a village with very basic facilities, in fact, it was even more basic than Kausani. Followed by dinner, our trek coordinator Dineshji, tall and lean man addressed the group and a gave detailed plan for the trek. Roopkund trek, via ali bugyal and bedini bugyal should take six days and 5 nights and trek is classified as “Moderate-Difficult”. We anxiously listened and asked many questions which he answered at considerable length. He emphasized on few points, one should drink at least 4 liters of water, eat less, don’t get into the tent as soon as you reach camping ground and so on. Few days before the trek, we were given a checklist of things clothes and accessories required for the trek. The night was indeed dark and fairly cold, after some moment of discussions and jive talking, we went to bed. 

As we got up and did our morning ablutions, we quickly realized that we won't be taking shower for next 6 days. Except for another person and myself, all of them have previously decided to offload their main trekking bags on ponies, and carry a daypack, which contains only essentials like medicines, eatables, and water.   On the first day of the trek, we are supposed to walk up to a small village called Didna which is around 12-13 km.  After heavy breakfast and silent prayers, looking at a distant mountain through a clear sky, we started moving ahead with two young guides.  Through narrow lanes with some houses here and there, the initial walk was pleasant and quite exhilarating. Sooner we left behind all human habitations and reached some real wilderness. When we reached certain water streams, we were asked to collect water to drink.  At some point, ascent started unexpectedly, I quickly realized my backpack really added my trouble and I wasn’t prepared for it. After some time, I was grasping and literally falling behind the group. And quickly someone in team realized that I was burning out disproportionately and offered to take my bag which I readily accepted.  After all that quick and uninteresting ascent, we started seeing some human habitations. When I reached I remember falling into a chair out of despair and exhaustion. I was extremely disappointed, had a rude awakening that I wasn’t fit for this trek. I was wondering whether fever and stomach problems really affected my fitness.

After lunch with rice, cabbage, and scrumptious chutney, some of us went to sleep. When we woke up for the evening tea, the elderly man at the house, explained that they primarily come to Didna during summer for cultivation and animal gazing and they go back to the plains during winter. It seems that’s the norm for many villagers in that region. Didna has no electricity except some solar panels which are used for charging mobile phones and basic lighting. Also, that house had a toilet with running water. Overall I felt very depressed and was thinking whether to drop off instead of taxing the group with my unfitness. I even doubted that age has finally caught me and that’s something I need to cope with. In midst of thoughts, the elderly man told us Roopkund, which according to legend was made by Lord Shiva for Nanda Devi for taking bath while she was going to Lord Shiva’s place after they got married. It seems she could see her reflection in Roopkund. Somehow, I felt respectful for the people who remained cheerful and positive amidst all hardship which they have to endure in their day to day life.  After all that talking, eating, we had the briefing for the next day. We will have to walk up to Bedini Bugyal via Ali bugyal and it will be another climb.  Towards the night, I made the decision to climb, felt that team was great to attempt this.

Next morning, we woke up early, after all the morning rituals and breakfast with roti and cabbage. In fact, I offloaded my main backpack to a pony and decided to carry only a small daypack. Looking back that’s the best decision I made in the trek. By now, starting the trek with a silent prayer had become a norm and we slowly walked away from that village.

To gain my battered confidence, I started walking in the front just after the guide. It was a climb again but through dense vegetation, of plants and trees. In the Himalayas, you rarely see animals, even birds for that matter. Through fairly dense I felt energetic and walked and walked, and took some breaks in between where we could enjoy some view. Sooner I realized what is “bugyal “, it is more or less an endless patch of greenery where grass alone grows. One of the guide, Santosh a young chap, told us that nothing grows beyond a certain height, except grass which is good for grazing animals. As soon as we reached Ali bugyal , we were overwhelmed by the breathtaking view of endless greenery, just like an ocean. Except for few mules and horses, we were left to ourselves to enjoy the vast valley soaked in mist. It was almost getting noon and we had some rotis and cabbage with some pickles. With that endless beauty around us, food felt very tasty and gratifying. Sooner we walked towards Bedini Bugyal and by early evening, we started seeing some tents in various colors in a beautiful valley. And our guide told us that’s Bedini Bugyal. By that time, I felt very refreshing.

Bedini Budyal was a kind of melting pot for many trekking groups, and all have set up the tents along a valley. Most probable reason for that might be the availability of water and kind of plain ground for setting up the tents. Bedini Budyal  hosts a small lake Bedini Kund which according to legend was created for quenching the thirst of Nanda Devi by Lord Shiva. It was probably first night in a tent and toilet was a pit covered with a small tent. During evening chai, I managed to interact with other teams especially one from Gujarat. I felt at ease with that refined crowd who came out to enjoy the nature by taking a considerable effort than doing things for any trophy, money or fame. As the sun slipped into the clouds, the cold was setting in. I wrapped myself in two  layers.  Just after dinner, we were briefed by guide about the next day. We were somewhat relieved to hear that next day is a gradual descent to a place called Patar Nachauni which is just 6 km. As we went to sleep we were woken up occasionally by the shattering noise of the bell worn by the ponies.

Roopkund, as we know, became famous or rather synonymous with the discovery of skeletons in the early 1940s by a ranger.  Our guide Santosh explained a local legend saying that violent deaths were caused by hailstorm as result of God’s anger because the local king who undertook an expedition didn’t mind to respect the place. It seems king yielded to the pressure from his pious wife and priest to undertake the Himalayan yatra to have a kid, but he continued his indulgence with liquor, meat, and courtesans on the way. At Patar Nachauni , the courtesans turned into stone during the dance program and one unit of King's contingent who went ahead of him got killed in violent hailstorms at Roopkund. Though there is unanimity in the hailstorm theory, but recent scientific studies on the human remains at Roopkund points to two set of people, one shorter and another taller .  And DNA from shorter people matches the local population while taller ones matched closely with some sect of Brahmins from Maharastra. But local population still continues with the tradition of Himalayan yatra once in 12 years.

As we reached Patar Nachauni at 12700ft , we were disappointed to see that our tents were setup much away from the route , in fact another trek was needed to reach there. But guides told us there is lack of water in other places.  While we move from one place to another, our cook, ponies went ahead of us and tents were set before we reach the place.

After dinner, we were told that next day we need to reach the base camp of the Roopkund called “Bhogwasa” and it involved going up to 14500 ft, then settling at 14100. As we started on next day, we were burdened by an extra trek to the trek route, then the steep ascent.  After the gruesome three hours of steep gradient, we reached Kallu Vinayak shrine situated at 14500 ft, as someone said it is probably the highest Ganesha shrine in the world. It was very windy and people from other teams were resting there, some having tea and maggi from one and only makeshift shop. I felt at peace looking at the cheerful Ganesha as our guides did the pooja there. After a moment of rest, we walked towards Bhogwasa. By then geography had changed considerably, there were no more meadows and it all looked red. As we reached Bhogwasa, everything looked very rocky and we had a first view of the ridge to Roopkund. While we settled down and thinking about the final ascent, the weather was getting really really cold. I was wearing three layers still felt that it was not enough. Towards the end of the day guide started the briefing saying the next day that’s fifth will be our toughest and the longest. It seems we have to get up at 3 am and start our final ascent to the summit at 4 am. And we need to come back to Bhogwasa and return to Bedini Bugyal where we started a day before. He told us that the final ascent will be tough. We felt good and relieved that we almost reached the final point and we need to make the final push , to make it just happen. Just as sunset, after a quick meal we went inside the tent thinking about the summit.

We were woken up at 3 am precisely next morning. After a bowl of oats, we started our ascent in pitch darkness. Somewhere up, we could see a stream of glittering lights from a batch who went ahead of us. The ground was slippery and we had to check the ground before we could put our foot. As we ascended slowly, darkness was giving its way to the unperturbed rays of the sun. When we reached point of final ascent, the route looked steep, cluttered and filled with falling rocks. It was tough as we pulled inch by inch, meter by meter to reach the final ridge. And as I walked from the ridge, I could see initially a rim, followed by large crater which had a small water body. For a moment, I looked at it with my folded hands and in complete peace, to realize that I was in Roopkund. It was dead cold, windy and I was almost shivering.  Near to the rim, I could see a pile of human bones and a skull which was retrieved from below. I walked down to the basin of the crater and felt that it is indeed a strange place and could see human bones and remains scattered around. I couldn’t believe violent hailstorm which killed so many, happened twelve centuries ago. Since it all appeared like as it happened in very recent times. As some explored the Roopkund basin, some went to see Junargali which is another summit point.  The guide was adamant that we return soon to the base than spending much time there, as we are almost at 16000 ft. After coming down, we had a quick meal in Bhogwasa and started our descent towards Bedini Bugyal. When it started raining and I realized my fingers were in pain as I could see droplets of tiny ice hitting my fingers. The same frozen droplets, bigger in size which killed many in Roopkund.  After a long walk, we reached Bedini Bugyal , our guides congratulated us as we almost completed Roopkund.  I had a spicey noodles from a nearby shop and had dinner with gulab jamun. Our guide told us that sweets were reserved for the summit day. When I removed my shoes, my toes were black in color.

Next morning, we walked directly to Wan village through dense forests as we finally entered human habitation, I felt relieved and exhausted. Usually, descent through slippery ways, put enormous pressure on knees and toes. And I realized that I need to buy a new shoes one notch bigger than current size to avoid black toes. As I touched upon the last lane and passed the last step reaching to the road, I raised both my hands holding the stick and “declared” victory.  Wan is the last village accessible by road and we were taken back to Lohangunj in a jeep. It was almost six days of penance, sheer endurance and a deep entwinement with nature as we reached base camp.

After a long and an exuberant shower in hot water, I grabbed a full-fledged meal and dropped into the bed. And I woke again, to eat dinner. The next day we headed towards kathgodam , as we cracked jokes and many shared many stories, we felt a bit of accomplishment.

As I entered the same retiring room of the railway station in Kathgodam and sat down waiting for the train , it gave an opportunity to look back , from the start.

Pictures 

Low Intensity Conflict

These days many have started believing that there is no elusive elixir to the India –Pak relations. A new government on either side initially begins with a sense of optimism, bonhomie and handshakes, and it doesn’t take a while, to descent into usual rhetoric and antagonism.

Obviously Kashmir tops the disputes between Pakistan and India even though Sir Creek, Siachen and sharing of water have slowly taken various positions in due course. It is believed that President Mushraff and Vajpayee were closer to agreement on Kashmir based on four point agenda outlined by the former. But the current Pakistan administration has distanced from those, which they feel, have diluted Pakistan’s traditional stand which considers Kashmir as a disputed territory.

India wants status quo in Kashmir and intend to convert the line of control into a de facto border. Apart from few concessions, like soft border which allows people and movement of goods from both sides, India has nothing much to offer on Kashmir. And India used “composite dialogue” as a pretext to counter Pakistan‘s single point focus on Kashmir dispute during negotiations. Not surprisingly Pakistan and its military institutions always wanted to alter this “status quo” and used limited low intensity conflict (read terrorism) against India. The scale of conflict which changed from attacking few army men in Kashmir to staging large scaled attack on Mumbai, are ways to highlight that India will pay its price unless it settles the issues with Pakistan.

Pakistan, after General Zia came to power, followed a process of “Islamization” which gave sufficient base to recruit jihadi elements. With the steady supply of military hardware and cash from west for Afghan war, Pakistan’s spy masters and establishment ran a successful enterprise by running a “jihadi” network. Bolstered by their success in overthrowing two regimes in Afghanistan, “jihad” was extended to Kashmir, may be in a way to settle scores with India over its covert role in the division of Pakistan. Though it created frustration and anger from time to time for India, their strategy of limited conflict in Kashmir through “jihadis” didn’t capture mainstream attention in India for a long time. But Pakistan was successful in extending this conflict to other parts of India by recruiting some home grown groups and targeted its fists against some of India’s important centers of power and commerce.

There is no doubt that this low intensity conflict posed a difficult challenge for India, which always had a considerable lead in conventional war machines. India tried to respond to high profile ones, like one on the Parliament by assembling its massive army on the border to threaten Pakistan, though a conventional war with a nuclear state wasn’t an option. In fact Indian security establishment weighted many options and considered military doctrines like “Cold Start” for army to launch limited and time bound operation.  But it is almost clear that India lacked technology, logistics and field intelligence to wage a limited conflict, more importantly there is a clear absence of “political will” also. But on strategic and diplomatic front, India has been building closer relations with Afghanistan and opened four consulates there with an aim to open a new front against Pakistan.

 Post 9/11, Pakistan had to yield to US led multilateral force who launched attack on the same group they created and supported. Even though Pakistan promised support to US led invasion, they maintained tactical support and gave sanctuary to many groups and individuals whom US led forces were hunting. In fact this “double game” worked very well for them till some jihadi groups went berserk and started hurting their own interests when some of them were targeted under pressure. Moreover Pakistan‘s military and intelligence agencies which is almost a parallel state on its own, have started using these groups against their own detractors and democratic leaders who acted without their blessings. But in recent times, there is a general feeling slowly emerging in Pakistan, that these jihadi groups are becoming a dangerous liability than a strategic asset. In truth, there is still considerable “jihadi firepower” available with Pakistan which is controlled by their own intelligence agencies.

For India, there are no visible signboards between nuclear armed Pakistan and any viable solution on Kashmir. Pakistan will continue to fight this “limited” and protracted war over Kashmir until India accedes to major concessions on Kashmir or it builds necessary capabilities to wage a limited conflict. Diplomacy and negotiations can succeed when both sides believe that they have a cost to pay for any aggression. Right now for Pakistan, this war is cheap.